Friday, February 27, 2015

1900 - 1910

1900 - 1910

The Ballets Russes (The Russian Ballets)

The Balleys Russes was a ballet company from Russia which performed between 1909 and 1929 in many countries. It was directed by Sergei Diaghilev, it is regarded as the greatest ballet company of the 20th century. The Ballets Russes was noted for the high standard of its dancers, most of whom had been classically trained at the great Imperial schools in Moscow and St. Petersburg. Their high technical standards contributed a great deal to the company's success in Paris, where dance technique had declined markedly since the 1830s. 




Ballets Russes poster



Women's outfit for one of the performances



Some of the outfits they wore for the performances





Lewis Hine

He was an American sociologist and photographer who used his camera as a tool for social reform. His photographs were instrumental in changing the child labor in the United States. This amazing person took four years of his life to show extremely bad conditions in which some children had to work. His documentaries had a huge impact on the the law which was then changed as well as the minimum age at which children could start working. 


Most of the children were not able to write or read. They worked from the morning to the evening. From some of them, they required 13 hours of work and they worked for a minimum wage. Kids usually had to do the work that was rather suitable for adults. 
Hine believed that his photographs could finally change something and 'wake up' the conscience of society, which should of reduced child labor. 
After a lot of people saw his photographs, his effort finally worked. They started to fight for children's rights and the law got changed. A lot of children stopped working in factories and mines. 




Liberty

Liberty is one of the last great emporiums for innovative and eclectic design. Situated in the heart of London since 1875, it remains to this day the destination of choice for the savvy and sophisticated shopper. The store became the most fashionable place to shop in London and Liberty fabrics were used for both clothing and furnishings. 




The Edwardian corsets and the "S" bend


















The straight-front corset, also known as the swan-bill corset, the S-bend corset or the health corset, was worn from circa 1900 to the early 1910s. It's name is derived from the very rigid, straight busk inserted in the centre front of the corset. This corset forced the torso forward and made the hips jut out in back. 


The straight-front corset was popularised by Inez Gaches-Sarraute, a courtesies with a degree in medicine. It was intended to be less injurious to wearers' health than other corsets in that it exerted less pressure on the stomach area. However, any benefits to the stomach were more than counterbalanced by injury caused to the back due to the unnatural posture that it forced upon its wearer. At this time, the bust lowered and corsets provided much less support for the breasts. 



Belle epoque

The Belle Époque or La Belle Époque  was a period in the European history that is conventionally dated as starting in 1871 and ending when World War I began in 1914. Occurring during the era of the French Third Republic, it was a period characterised by optimism, peace at home and in Europe, new technology and scientific discoveries. The peace and prosperity in Paris allowed the arts to flourish, and many masterpieces of literature, music, theatre and visual art gained recognition. The Belle Époque was named, in retrospect, when it began to be considered a "golden age" in contrast to the horrors of World War I.

Fashion:

By 1895 - leg of mutton sleeves swelled 
to gigantic proportions and were also 
used on décolleté evening dresses. The 
size of the sleeves was highlighted by the 
comparison of the tiny sashed or belted 
waist against the simple gored skirt that 
flared out all round to balance the 
massive sleeve heads.

High neck blouse - high necks were usual 
by day, but by night exceptionally low sweetheart, square and 
round décolleté necklines allowed women to wear quantities of fine  jewellery. No cleavage was visible as the bust was suppressed into 
a mono bosom. The skirts were often gored and created an 
elongated trumpet bell shape like the gently opening head of a 
longiflorum lily. Modified versions were less extreme over the 
hips, simply flowing to more width at the hemline.

Bodice pouched Edwardian day dresses - at the front of the 
bodice, pouches of cascading lace or gathered fabric gave 
emphasis to the low bust line. The straight sleeves of the late 
1890s developed into bloused effects gathered into 
wrist bands. Very deep high lace fabric collars that reached right 
under the chin elongated the neck. They were often kept in place 
with wire covered in silk that was twisted into a series of hooks 
and eyes from one piece of wire. Little wire or boning 
supports covered with buttonhole silk were sometimes dispersed 
every few inches of the collar to maintain the rigid effect. 






Monday, February 23, 2015

1960-1970


1960 - 1970

The 1960's was a decade that changed many fashion traditions. A lot of the 60's fashion trends was influenced by the 50's but also social movements had a big influence on it. Mary Quant and Jackie Kennedy became extremely popular. 


Mary Quant

She was a Welsh fashion designer and a fashion icon. She was one of the designers who took credit for the miniskirt and hot pants, and by promoting these and other fun fashions she encouraged young people to dress to please themselves and to treat fashion as a game. 
















The miniskirt, described as one of the very popular inventions in the fashion history in one of the garment most widely associated with Quant. This trend changed everything and was very popular amongst young people. In late 60's she designed hot pants and became a British fashion icon. 



Jackie Kennedy

 Jacqueline Kennedy popularised most of the trends seen at the 60's
 including the pillbox hat, oversized buttons, pastel suits with short boxy jackets and simple geometric dresses/shift dresses. She became a symbol of fashion for women worldwide 



Music

In the 1960's, bands like the Beatles and the Stones revitalised British pop. They often pioneered their own style, alternative ways of dressing. Their usually completed their mod outfits with straight-combed hair hairstyles. Later on, most of them swapped this style for psychedelic gear and facial hair. 





American musical contributions associated with the folk and hippy movements like the Mamas and the Papas, Peter, Paul and Mary. The 1960's decade ended with the free festival called "Woodstock" which used to take a place in a rural part of New York state and headlined by progressive rock musicians such as Jimi Hendrix and Janis Joplin. This monumental music festival changed our world. More than half a million people, united in a message of peace, came together to demonstrate how a generation could be heard.




Paco Rabanne

Francisco "Paco" Rabaneda Cuervo, known as Paco Rabanne is a Spanish fashion designer who became known as 'l'enfant terrible' of the 1960s French fashion world. 
He started his fashion career by creating jewellery for designers such as Givenchy, Dior and Balenciaga, but after that he found his own fashion house in 1966. He used unconventional mterials (metal, paper, plastic) to produce his garments. 
His is mainly known for his costume designs for science fiction film called "Barbarella". 
In 1968 he started collaborating with a company called 'Puig' and after that he was able to produce his own Rabanne's perfumes.